Important Facts About Exfoliators and Peels

Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are naturally occurring acids, derived from the sugars in particular plants. These acids work at the very base of the stratum corneum, dissolving the cement that holds dead skin cells together. This increases cell turnover and influences the structure of new stratum corneum being made. This results is skin that is more flexible, smoother, and has more even tone and pigment. At higher strengths, deeper dermal effects, such as increased collagen and increased skin thickness, are observed. At lower strengths, it improves the skin's ability to hold moisutre and also makes a great toner to remove superficial dead skin cells and prepare the skin for active treatment products.

Glycolic acid, the most common alpha hydroxy acid found in cosmetic preparations, is popular mainly because that is the alpha hydroxy acid that has been the most widely studied. The small molecular structure and the rapid penetration of glycolic acid make it the most irritating of the group. The possibility of irritation make glycolic acid more suitable for those with mature or non-sensitive skin. Those with oilier skin types often prefer glycolic acid sinks it sinks into the skin quickly.

Lactic acid is a natural humectant that draws and holds water in the upper layers of the skin. Alpha hydroxy acids as a whole can increase the skin's ability to trap water due to an increased production of natural skin moisturizers (hyaluronic acid), but lactic acid's extra humectant properties make it even more ideal for treating dry skin. Lactic acid's larger molecule size makes it less irritating than glycolic acid. Also, because lactic acid is naturally found in the human body, it is not likely to cause an allergic reaction in those with reactive skin. Lactic Acid is ideal for those with slightly sensitive, dry skin or allergy-prone skin. It is also known to be beneficial in treating pigmentation problems.

Beta Hydroxy Acids
Salicylic Acid is a Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA).. Its exfoliating action is similar to that of glycolic acid, but it is oil soluble and has the ability to penetrate and clean out pores. Salicylic acid is particularly effective at decreasing the number of blackheads and whiteheads and helping to keep acne at bay. It is also an exceptional and, in lower strengths, gentle, exfoliator for skin rejuvination. At lower strengths, it, too, makes a great toner to remove superficial dead skin cells and prepare the skin for active treatment products. Salicyclic Acid can be more drying than Alpha Hydroxy Acids, however. Many people like to mix and match these acids based on their skin's needs. Others use the oil-soluble BHA on congested or acne-prone areas and AHAs on the other parts ot their face, neck and hands.

The Importance of pH and Free Acid Values
Although Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acid are both exceptional skin rejuvinators and anti-aging products. the free acid value of the acid used is absolutely critical in obtaining desired results. All our acids are unbuffered, with a pH of 1.9. This means that the percent of acid shown in the description IS the free acid value of the product. That makes our exfoliators extremely effective.

By way of comparison, a buffered product with 8% acid but a pH of 4 will have a free acid value of only 4.7. This is extremely important when comparing products and even brands as the benefits to skin derived from a free acid value of 4.7 are much lower than those derived from a product with a free acid value of 8. In short, don't be fooled by other brands that claim very high acid%, but are really buffered profucts. The only products that I know of that offer true, unbuffered acids are Professional Solutions and Glytone.

A 2-4% free acid value is generally the threshold minimum for any beneficial effect to take place. The following chart indicates free acid values and the derived skin benefits:

* 2-4% smoother, softer skin with a moderate increase in glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) and improved moisturization
* 4-8% moderate increase in squamous cell turnover with a significant increase in GAGs
* 8-12% significant increase in squamous cell turnover with moderate increase in collagen deposition.
* 12-15% significant increase in collagen deposition along with thicker, less fragmented elastic fibers
* 15-20% a more uniform melanin pattern and reversal in basal cell atypia

Although more significant improvement is seen with stronger acids, it is imperative that you start slowly and work your way up. The stronger acids will initially be left on for only a very short period of time, but you can work your way up to longer periods as you develop tolerance. Some people will even be able to leave many of our stronger acids (7.5% to 10%) on overnight once tolerance is built up. Our Fruit Acid 15% will almost always have to be left on for only a brief period of up to 10 minutes and then rinsed from the skin.

But remember that it is not necessary to leave acids on overnight to see results. You will still derive all of the benefits of the acid. The goal is to improve your skin, not irritate it. If at time you experience irritation, you should back off until your skin returns to normal and then begin again, more slowly this time.

Working With Acids
The first thing to do is determine your skin care and the results you are trying to obtain. Oily skinned persons will probably want to choose Salicyclic Acid for their everyday acid treatment, while those with dry or sensitive skin may find that Lactic Acid, which is more gentle, may be best for them. For these with normal or non-sensitive skin, the Glycolic Exfoliation Wash or Fruit Acid Gel is a good choice. Also, not everyone responds the same to acids. What works well for one person may not work well for another. Many people love Glycolic Acid, while others find it too harsh and prefer Lactic. So be willing to be flexible and listen to your skin.

In general, the Salicylcic Acid Exfoliator 2% and Glycolic Exfoliation Wash 3.5% can be left on by most everyone, even if you are new to acids. The Fruit Acid 7.5% Gel, Glycolic Exfoliation Wash 7.5% and the Lactic Acid 10% Gel should be applied after washing and rinsed off after a period of 2-10 minutes. Once tolerance is achieved, some people will be able to leave these on overnight.

The Fruit Acid Gel 15% is almost always going to be rinsed off after 2-10 minutes, depending on tolerance. As you work up, you may use this as your nightly acid treatment or choose to use it just once a week as an at-home peel as you continue to work with the other acids.

Many people use different acids on different parts of their face. You might need the Salicylic Acid for your chin and nose and the Fruit Acid for the rest of your face. Or you might want to deep clean all your pores once or twice a week by using the Salicylic Acid on your entire face and use the Lactic Acid the other nights of the week. You could even choose to spot treat breakout areas with the Salicyclic Acid 5%. Again, you should use the acids in a way that best suits your skin. Let you skin tell you what it needs. Nothing is set in stone!

Applying the Acids
You should apply acids to freshly washed skin. It is best to use a cleanser with a pH of 5.5 or lower so that you don't disturb the pH of our unbuffered acids, which will decrease efficacy and results. All the cleansers at Skincare Central are in the proper pH range.

Depending on your skin type, the Glycolic Acid Exfoliation Wash 3.5% or Salicyclic Acid Exfoliator 2% should be used to "prep" the skin for application of the Fruit Acid and Lactic Acid. This will remove excess facial oils and allow for a more even penetration of the acid. This is referred to as a "bi-phasic" peel. The 100% Cotton Gauze Pads work best for applying the Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid Exfoliators because cotton balls will absorb much of these toner-like solutions. These pads are also great for "buffing" away any dead skin flakes which may occur from acid use.

It is imperative that you do not neutralize the acid by applying a high pH product on top too quickly. Remember, our acids are unbuffered with a pH of 1.9. If you are applying your acid as a rinse-off product, this will not be an issue. However, if you are leaving your acid on, you must remember to not apply anything on top until an appropriate amount of time has gone by to allow the acid to fully work. It is best to wait at least 10 minutes, although you can wait up to 30 minutes for a very deep treatment. You can always brush your teeth, eat breakfast, apply your eye treatments, or even read or watch TV while your acid sets. Be creative!

Another option, if your acid is a gel, is to apply it last, OVER your other treatment serums. This option will only work if you are able to tolerate the acid for overnight use.

Acids are generally used as part of a comprehensive skin care program that will include collagen-stimulating products and other actives based on your specific needs. Please refer to the anti-aging, anti-oxdidant, and pigment correction section for more information.

NOTE: Acids will cause sun sensitivity, so you should always wear a sunscreen. A minimum SPF/PPD of 15 is recommended for daily use. More information on sunscreens can be found in the sun production section.

As always, if you have questions, please contact us for personal assistance in selecting products.

Sample Routines

Routine for oily-skinned person:
A.M.
wash with AHA Cleanser
Salicylic Acid Exfoliator 2% to entire face
Salicyclic Acid Exfoliator 5% to chin and nose
wait 5-10 minutes (you can apply any eye treatments, such as DCX, at this time as you will not use acids in the immediate eye area)
apply other actives such as Vitamin C 25%, Red Tea Serum
AKN Photoderm Sunscreen Spray SPF 30/PPD 26

P.M.
wash with AHA Cleanser
Salicyclic Acid Exfoliator 2% to entire face
apply Fruit Acid 7.5% Gel to entire face and wait 2-30 minutes as tolerated, then rinse
apply Pure Hyaluronic Acid to restore moisutre to skin
apply ATX Double Action Gel to spot areas
apply DCX Dark Circle Undereye Treatment
apply Triple C Serum to entire face
apply oil-free Moisturizer Gel where needed
once a week: apply Fruit Acid 15% Gel to entire face in place of Fruit Acid 7.5% Gel

Routine for sensitive or dry-skinned person
A.M.
wash with Rose Hip Oil Soap
Glycolic Acid Exfoliation Wahs 3.5%% to entire face
wait 5-10 minutes (you can apply any eye treatments, such as DCX, at this time as you will not use acids in the immediate eye area)
apply other actives such as Vitamin C 25%, Red Tea Serum
Bioderma Photomax Sunscreen Cream SPF 50+/PPD 35

P.M.
wash with Rose Hip Oil Soap
Glycolic Acid Exfoliation Wahs 3.5%% to entire face
apply Lactic Acid 10% Gel to entire face and wait 2-30 minutes as tolerated, then rinse
apply Pure Hyaluronic Acid to restore moisutre to skin
apply ATX Double Action Gel to spot areas
apply DCX Dark Circle Undereye Treatment
apply Triple C Serum to entire face
apply Squalane to face as needed to moisturize
once a week: apply Fruit Acid 7.5% Gel to entire face in place of Lacitc Acid 10% Gel if tolerated

Advanced Routine for normal to combination skin with breakout prone chin and nose
A.M.
wash with Wheat Germ Oil Soap
Glycolic Acid Exfoliation Wahs 3.5%% to entire face
apply Salicyclic Acid Exfoliator 5% to chin and nose
wait 5-10 minutes (you can apply any eye treatments, such as DCX, at this time as you will not use acids in the immediate eye area)
apply other actives such as Vitamin C 25%, Red Tea Serum
Bioderma Photomax Sunscreen Cream SPF 50+/PPD 35

P.M.
wash with Wheat Germ Oil Soap
Glycolic Acid Exfoliation Wahs 3.5%% to entire face
apply Fruit Acid 15% Gel to entire face and wait 2-10 minutes as tolerated, then rinse
apply Pure Hyaluronic Acid to restore moisutre to skin
apply Triple C Serum to entire face
apply DCX Dark Circle Undereye Treatment
apply Squalane to face to cheeks, eyes and forehead
apply Oil-Free Moisturizing Gel to chin if needed
once a week: apply Salicyclic Acid Exfoliator 5% to entire face BEFORE applying Fruit Acid 15% Gel for more intense weekly bi-phasic peel