Important Facts About Sun Protection and Sunscreens

Sun protection is one of the single most important things you can do to prevent and even reverse photo-aging of the skin. Some studies show that as much as 80% of what we refer to as "skin aging" is actually photoaging due to cumulative sun exposure, and is not due to the intrinsic, or chronological, aging process. Some people mistakenly believe that they can escape photoaging (and even skin cancer) by simply avoiding the beach, but, in fact, repeated daily incidental exposure may acfually account for as much as 80% of a person's total lifetime UV exposure! And an estimated 2 in every 5 Americans who reaches the age of 65 will develop skin cancer sometime in their lives.

The UV Spectrum
UVC wavelengths are the shortest ultraviolet rays, extending from 100nm to 290nm, and are the most carcinogenic. While the sun generates ultraviolet C, the atmospheric ozone layer screens out virtually all UVC from reaching us. However, Ultraviolet C may become increasingly problematic for those living at high altitudes. If the depletion of the ozone layer through pollution continues, the consequences will be life-threatening on a large-scale.

UVB is the intermediate wavelength of Ultraviolet rays, and causes the initial appearance of redness, commonly called 'sunburn. The current SPF rating system addresses only this specific wavelength. UVB primarily damages the outer most layer of the skin, the epidermis, as well as the upper dermis. The result is skin redness and thickening of the the stratum corneum, (our body's attempt to reduce UVB impact on the epidermis), as well as a loss of collagen and elastin and changes in pigment. This type of damage is cumulative, potentially resulting not only in photoaging, but basal cell and squamous cell cancers. UVB rays are strongest between the hours of 10 a.m. and 2 p.m.

UVA (320nm - 400nm) wavelength is the deeper penetrating wavelength. The longer UVA wavelengths were once thought of as essentially harmless, but scientific evidence now indicates that this is not true, and that UVA rays actually penetrate deep into the dermis, where they cause significant damage and skin changes such as dryness, uneven pigmentation, both fine and deep wrinkles, sagging skin, and even skin cancer. UVA adversely affects the deep dermis far more than the more superficial damage caused by UVB rays, resulting in a significant loss of the skin's supportive collagen and elastin. This UVA tissue damage is cumulative and studies to date support the relationship of such UV exposure to the development of basal and squamous cell cancers, as well as pre-cancerous lesions. Recently, it has been reported that depletion of Vitamin A in the skin by UVA exposure may contribute to both photo aging and cancers of the skin.

Significantly, unlike the shorter UVB (290-320nm) wavelengths, UVA easily penetrates window glass. And unlike UVB rays, UVA rays remain fairly constant throughout the day and even from season to season. Since even a low dose of UVA can penetrate to the underlying dermis, this means it is important to stay protected year round.

The SPF rating system does not accurately or completely define a sunscreen's protective capabilities from any other harmful ultraviolet radiation, except the UVB wavelength. Thus, when evaluating sunscreens, it is critical to determine the PPD rating as well. PPD is the rating used to determine a sunscreen's UVA rays capabilities. Basically, PPD is to UVA rays what SPF is the UVB rays. Thus, a good sunscreen should provide a PPD of at least 15, which would block about 95% of the UVA rays from your skin. Those with pigment problems or photosenstive conditions should choose sunscreens with even higher PPD ratings.

Choosing an Effective Sunscreen
Remember that "broad spectrum" is a baically meaningless term because it does not tell you much of the UVA rays are actually being blocked. Similarly, the SPF rating system does not predict the ability of sunscreens to block UVA wavelengths. In order to protect yourself from UVA rays, it is necessary to look to the PPD rating of a sunscreen. This will only be found on European (and some Canadian) sunscreens. Skincare Central only carries European sunscreens with the highest PPD protection available.

No U.S. sunscreen provides the UVA protection availble from European brand sunscreens such as Bioderma and La Roche Posay. This can be quickly determined by referring to the CIBA Sunscreen Simulator. Moreover, U.S. sunscreens often use chemicals that are not entirely safe. For example, Oxybenzone, a common sunscreen filter used to block short UVA rays, is systemically absorbed and excreted in urine at a much higher rate than other sunscreen filters. Some researchers have even concluded that oxybenzone should not be applied to large surface areas of the skin for extended and/or repeated periods of time. The high systemic absorption of oxybenzone may be of concern since some studies have shown that oxybenzone is estrogenic. Concerns have also been expressed about the safety of 4-MBC, which is used heavily in Canadian sunscreens but is highly estrogenic. Fortunately, none of the sunscreens carried by Skincare Central contain these ingredients. And in fact, the new filters used in these latest European sunscreens have been proven to not have any estrogenic activity.

The following graph shows the UV protection provided by a typical U.S. drugstore sunscreen containing 7.5% octinoxate and 4% TIO2. This sunscreen has an SPF of 19, but a PPD of only 3.4. Notice that protection is significant--over 95% of UV rays are blocked--UNTIL you get to 330 nm. Remember that UVA rays are between 320 to 400 mn. This sunscreen blocks only 80% of the UVA rays at 340 nm and protection sharply declines from there. At 380 to 400 nm (long UVA rays), a person using this sunscreen is blocking less than 1/2 of the UVA rays. This is very poor protection indeed from the very damaging and pro-aging UVA rays.

By comparison, let's take a look at a European sunscreen with proven UVA protecting capabilities, Bioderma Photoderm AKN Spray. This sunscreen has an SPF of 30 and a PPD of 26. Note the significantly higher UVA protection. UVA protection is approximately 98% throughout 380 nm, and protection from 380 to 400 never drops below 65%.

How to Apply Sunscreens
Sunscreens are tested at the application rate of 2mg/cm2. In practical terms, this means that you need to apply 1/4 teaspoon to your face and another 1/4 teaspoon to your neck to obtain the stated SPF and PPD. That may not sound like a lot, but it is! If you purchase one of those tiny measuring spoon sets, you will be amazed at just how much sunscreen is required to get the stated protection. You would have to apply 6 squirts from a 4 oz. spray bottle to get approximately 1/4 teaspon of sunscreen onto your face. Truly, this is far more than any average person would ever apply in an everyday setting, or even in extreme conditions for that matter.

So what to do? Many of the lighter sunscreens can be layered and then "patted down" to set them and eliminate shine. A dusting of powder or even pure cornstarch will often mattify the sunscreen effectively.

At Skincare Central, we have chosen only those sunscreens that are noted for their elegant textures and finish. We also provide sample sizes for purchase so that you can try several and determine which one(s) you like best. In fact, we encourage you to try as many as possible before you purchase a full-size bottle so that you won't be disappointed. I find I like to keep a couple of different ones on hand depending on the weather, my skin type that day, and how much exposure I plan to get.

Skincare Central has also chosen only sunscreens with exceptionally high PPD values. What this means is that you can usually apply less than 1/4 teaspoon to your face and still be protected very well. For example, the first graph shown above showed the protection available from using approximately 6 squirts of Bioderma AKN Spray to the face. If you can get 6 squirts onto your face, that is great! However, if, like most people, you can barely get 1/2 that much on your face for everyday wear, and end up applying only 3 squirts of AKN Spray to your face, you would still end up with a little less than 1/2 of the stated protection. Since the stated protection for AKN Spray is SPF 30/PPD26, a little less than 1/2 of that is still excellent protection for most situations. If you are going to be in intense conditions (anything more than incidental everyday exposure), then you would need to use a sunscreen with a higher PPD value or simply apply 6 squirts of the Bioderma AKN Spray.

Here are a few tips for sunscreen application:
*Experiment with which actives will work well underneath your sunscreen. Some actives with a lot of hyaluronic acid in them may cause the sunscreen to "ball up." I find the 25% Vitamin C serum is great underneath my sunscreen and causes no problems. If your skincare serums cause balling, just use them at night instead.
*Try mixing a bit of a tinted sunscreen with your regular sunscreen if you find it tends to leave a white cast
*Apply to one area of your face at a time and blend in well.
*Give the sunscreen a few minutes to dry if necessary.
*Use the palms of your hands to pat down your face after applying sunscreen. Do NOT use oil blotting paper as you will remove the active sunscreen ingredients!
*Do NOT apply makeup that contains physical sunscreen (TIO2 or ZIO2) as an active ingredient as these will inactive the Avobenzone in your European sunscreen.
*Most powders will mattify your sunscreen quite nicely. You may find a loose powder works better.


Do I Need to Reapply?
That depends on your sun exposure. If you are going to be outside in intense exposure, then you should apply every 2 hours or anytime the sunscreen is sweated or washed off, such as during vigorous physical activity or swimming.

For everyday incidental exposure, you do not usually have to reapply every 2 hours. In fact, women who wear makeup would find this an impossible feat.! However, you must understand that your sunscreen WILL become less effective as time goes by., although it is not necessarily as grim as some would like to think. In one study, researchers tested the amount of sunscreen left on subjects' fingers after several hours. One sunscreen had 80% remaining after 4 hours, while the worst-performing sunscreen still had 78% remaining after 5 hours. So, a significant amount of the sunscreens were still there in both cases.

In another study, it was found that a water resistant sunscreen retained its SPF for 6 hours after application to the lower back. The worst case scenario was a non-waterproof sunscreen, which had an original tested SPF of 16.7 +/- 1.2 and, after 8 hours, was found to have an spf of 12.7 +/- 3.1. This is a loss of only SPF 4. So, while there is clearly a loss in sunscreen efficacy after several hous, I personally feel it is safe to say that most of your sunscreen will still be on your face for several hours after you apply it. But again, this is another reason why it is important to choose the highest possible protection to begin with.

So when do you reapply on a normal day? For most people, I would recommend applying as part of your normal A.M. daily skin routine. Then apply again later again in the day, perhaps after you get home from work. This way, you could actually wash your face and reapply. Reapplying in this manner will be especially important in the summer, where is stays light until almost 9 o'clock. Your sunscreen is simply not going to give you the necessary protection when it's been on your face for over 10 hours. Some people are able to repply sunscreens at lunchtime. If your schedule permits and it's possible for you, that's great!

During the winter, when it might be dark by 5 o'clock, you may not need to reapply at all. Again, the choice is yours based on your own risk/benefit analysis and the climate you live in. If you live in Florida, you might decide you need to reapply at lunch, however inconvenient it is, while someone living in Ohio might decide to forego the afternoon application, especially in the wintertime.

I always highly recommend tinting your car windows. It costs about $110 and is well worth the money! The intense, direct UVA rays encountered while driving an be entirely avoided with this simple procedure.

Do I Have to Wear Sunscreen in the House?
Well, you don't HAVE to do anything, but you really should wear sunscreen in the house. Remember that 90% of the aging UVA rays penetrate through glass. Any brightly lit room is flooded with aging UVA rays. If you simply apply your sunscreen as part of your morning routine, whether you're going anywhere or not, you'll always be protected and it won't feel like any big deal at all.

If the thought of wearing sunscreen in the house is simply too much to bear, there are some measures your can take. If you have blinds, turn them so the light is directed up towards the ceiling. At least you'll be avoiding direct light. If you are in a room and sitting directly next to a window, then close the curtains or blinds to avoid that direct light from blasting right on you.

And of course, you can always tint your house. Lots of poeple do this in some part of the country just to cut down on energy bills.Those that do this always tell me they appreciate the freedom not to have to wear sunscreen in the house. But that means you also have to remember to put it on if you go outside to check the mail or just go sit in the backyard. So in the end, it's probably just as easy to simply apply your sunscreen in the morning and not worry about it.

Which Sunscreen Is Right for Me?
Clearly, the European sunscreens are superior in UVA protection and should be chosen whenever possible. The cost of these, as well as having to import them from Europe, has been a deterrent to some, but I truly believe the cost and inconvenience is far outweighed by the anti-aging benefits. Moreover, at Skincare Central, we've taken all the hassle out of obtaining these excellent sunscreens by importing them for you! We've also chosen only those formulas which offer exceptional UVA protection AND superior texture and finish.

However, some people cannot tolerate chemical sunscreens or simply wish to avoid them. There are a few U.S. sunscreens that will provide decent protection and are completely natural. One is our 100% Pure Titanium by Professional Solutions. This sunscreen contains only titanium dioxide and water. It is exceptionally light and can be applied straight to the face with your fingertips. Applied straight, this sunscreen will provide a PPD of approximately 8 if two layers are applied, which is easy to do with this light product. Two layers of this product means a normal "layer" of product as most people would apply it. It does not mean you have to apply 1/2 teaspoon to your face!

We also have a European physical sunscreen, SVR 50B. It has a high PPD of 20 and is tinted with a natural beige color. The texture is quite elegant.

We do carry a variety of formulas to choose from, from sprays to super light "milks" and "fluides." These work well for all skin types, including normal and combination or oily skinned individuals. Dry skinned individuals can simply wear a moisturizer under their sunscreen if they need more moisture. We even carry sunscreens that are better for sport activities.You may want to keep a couple on hand--one for everyday use and a higher PPD formula for intense exposure or outside sports.

I recommend sampling a variety to see which works best for you. Everyone is different and what one person loves another person may not like at all.

Won't Oral Anti-Oxidants Help Prevent UV Damage to my Skin?
Absolutely and I highly encourage them! Good ones to take include Vitamins C, E and beta carotene. Other excellent free-radical fighters include Alpha Lipoic Acid, CoQ10, selenium, fish oil, and a new, but very effective supplement called Polypodium leucotomos, or "Kalawalla." The latter has been proven in Harvard studies to effectively neturalize UV free-radicals

Oral supplements can't replace your sunscreen, but they certainly help "fill in the gaps" caused by not reapplying enough, not applying enough in the first place, etc. Think of it as extra insurance against UV damage to your skin..

Will I Get Enough Vitamin D if I Wear Sunscreen All the Time?
Unfortunately, no. And given the recent studies showing how extremely important Vitamin D is, I recommend you take Vitamin D supplements. New research indicates that current RDA recommendations are too low and that a person can take up to 10,000 i.u. before showing signs of toxicity. You can probably safely take at least 800 i.u. of Vitamin D a day if you are not getting any sunlight. And you can always have your blood levels checked (for only about $25) if you're not sure how much to take. I personally take about 1,400 i.u. a day of Vitamin D3.

As always, if you have questions, feel free to write for personal advice!